Verhältnisse - Detail

Gipfel: Pt. Triolet north face / route diagonal

Route:

Ray Cornips

Verhältnisse

14.02.2003
Started just before sunrise. Left skis near bergschrund. First 150 m stepsnow and deep powdersnow. Good ice in the 5 to 6 steeper pitches / comparable to the steepest pitches in the Swiss Route but longer. Belaying possible using rocks and stones. Ice sometimes too thin to protect with icescrews.
The steep ice sections end at the ridge near to the upper seracs of the Triolet northface. Some mixed climbing on unstabel granular snow. Then a snowslope of 200 m to the top of the ridge between Petit Triolet and Triolet. Huge corniches but we found our way through. We reached the summit at sunset. Very cold bivouac (-22°) without sleepingbags!!!!
The upper snowslope was avalanche prone and some crevasses were invisible covered with powdersnow.
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25.02.2003 um 20:47
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