Verhältnisse - Detail

Gipfel: Le chant du cygne

Route:

Roland Bekendam

Verhältnisse

28.09.2004
Impressive route, no sports climbing. The lower 14 pitches are fairly easy, but then the climbing really starts. L16 (6c+)is ok in good rock and very well protected, the rock needs much attention in L17 (6c), and we found L18 (6b+) scary because of large loose slabs directly above the belay, which you can only use to stand on (do not pull on these, but use small holds). We were too tired to freeclimb L19 (7a), which is well protected and in good rock, with longer runouts at the end. At the belay we removed a plate of rock: it lasted many seconds before it exploded a few 100 m down at the easier angled part of the face. L20 (6c) also contains some loose blocks to be circumvented cautiously. We skipped the last length (looks loose), as most seem to do. We used 12 hours for the climb (7 for the steep part). Runouts of 10 m are not uncommon in the easier lenghts, and runouts of 6 m occur in the more difficult parts. The descent (dry) was easy and can be done on running shoes/sandals (1 hour, 15 min). After about 100 m of vertical descent, there is a cairn about 200 m from the edge of the northface. Here a fixed rope of about 50 m length allows a rapid descent through a rock band. Then traces, cairns and short pieces of fixed rope indicate the way. The classic north face was very calm, no stonefall heard or seen, and seemed to be in good condition.
LAWINEN-PROGNOSE
SLF Lawinenkarte (Quelle: slf.ch)
 
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28.09.2004 um 16:23
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