Verhältnisse - Detail

Gipfel: Monte Rosa - Ostwand

Route: Unbeschriebene Route

Jan Schellekens


On 5 June I arrived in the Rif. Marinelli, and started observing the conditions in the wall. On 9 June I left the Rif. Marinelli at 20.15. I crossed the Canalone Marinelli at 3050m and had to cross three avalanche-canals (=Lawinenbahnen) while doing so. I climbed up the Imseng-Rücken up to 3600m. From there I crossed the ice-field to the lower rocks of the Roccia del Grigie at 3900m. I passed the serac-zone at 4000m without any problem, and at 4100m I started to diagonally cross to the left, towards the Silbersattel. At 4150m I had to cross another avalanchecanal, which turned out to be the deepest and hardest of them all. At 02.45 I arrived at the Silbersattel. After a short break I walked to the top of the Nordend at 4609m, and back to the Silbersattel. At 04.30 I started the most difficult part of the tour: going down crossing the Monte Rosagletscher. For safety reasons I wore snowshoes. Untill 08.30 the glacier was in the shade, and the snow was very well frozen. I arrived at 09.00 in the Monte Rosahütte, at 2800m.
On the date and hour that I went up the wall, the snow and ice conditions were very, very well. My assumption is that the conditions in the wall will remain acceptable during nights that it freezes substantialy. From 08.00/11.00 in the morning through 16.00/18.00 wet-snow-avalanches come down the Canalone every fifteen minutes, so you better choose your climbing hours outside this timeframe.
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13.06.2003 um 12:12
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