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Gipfel: Monte Brento - Via Vertigine


Ralf Sussmann


Extremely impressive and elegant 1000 m bigwall forced through the biggest overhang of Europe (top is 100 m out of the basis) during 8 days in 1992 by italian guides. It is fully equipped and can be done in a quick 1.5-days light-pack alpine style (without houl bag).

For preparation of the trip the guide book "Pareti del Sarca" by Diego Filippi (Versante Sud) is highly recommended. However, for the sake of the security of interested parties we want to add a few remarks.

1. The comment "no stopper or friends required" is true for nearly all the way. However, we found for the first part a few Rocs be helpful, because there are long grade 5.9 pitches protected with only few 6 mm bolts.

2. The advice "take a hand drill and a few bolts" is right indeed. Three bolts are missing in the second part of the route, and we broke one ourselves. Obviously, a few broken bolts had been replaced previously. There is also a 20 m passage equipped with V-type profile pitons which might break one time, so take one or two of them with you.

3. We recommend you to take a 1.5 m telescope clipstick with you (we needed it 3 times). This is to avoid hand drilling at passages with missing bolts, which might cost you exactly the time which causes then a (second) bivac within the overhangs (climbing time of the second day is 12 hours according to the guide - we needed 14 hours).

4. Take at least 30, better 35 quick draws with you. The reason is that there are several 50 m pitches equipped with more than 35 bolts. We had only 23 quick draws and this was dangerous: These bolts are 6 mm only and already eroded a little bit. Most of them might hold not more than 200-300 kp because of rust and oxidation (no stainless steel) and the dolomite-type rock quality. So if you clip only every second or third bolt by a quick draw (as we did) you fall into the risk of unzipping a whole pitch. (Only the belays are equipped with 10 mm bolts, with exception of the last 4 belays, where you will find only 6 mm bolts).
Do it soon, both the bolts and you will not become better during years of waiting ...,

and it may happen to you (like us) that the guy in the Arco red point shop refuses selling you a fifi hook, and tells you to do more training of your arms instead ...

Anyway, you will have golden days in this route!
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19.05.2005 um 11:56
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