Verhältnisse - Detail

Gipfel: Dru: Directe Americaine

Route:

Ulrich Prinz

Verhältnisse

28.07.2003
Comment:
* The best granite I've seen so far, beautiful view, superb climbing: a must !
Approach:
Chamonix -> Montenvers Train (every 20 Min) -> Ladders ('echelles') 2,5h towards Charpoua Hut, then left on the rim -> 2h to first bivy site in rocks & grass -> 1h to second bivy spot on glacier and to base of the climb
Route:
The DAV-Guide topo was good but not foolproof See the big topo picture on the page linmked below for a good overview. We started at 8 AM and started rappelling from the bloc coince at 3:30 PM
Equipment:
The first 4 (of ~18) pitches are bolted(!) with huge anchors. From there on, there are old pitons and rotten wood-pieces + all kind of weird other stuff jammed in cracks. Mucho to clip, but nothing bomber, as many slings are already old & brittle. (Gives you a gentle landing, at least after three stops or so ;-) We took a set of 6 friends, 10 nuts and 10 quickdraws - we hardly used any nuts, but frequently used all friends. The main problem was, that we lost the route a couple of times (at least we thought so) and did other cracks (there are many possibilities), which are just as nice as the ones on the left and right, but they only had very little in-situ equipment. Rappeling takes quite long, because the rope gets stuck everywhere :-( Better to do more short rappells.
Stays optimal!
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28.07.2003 um 00:27
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