Nelion (5188m) - normal route (South-East side) IV+10.02.2019
Routenbeschreibung
Mt Kenya - Nelion (5188m)
Nelion (5188m) - normal route (South-East side) IV+
98 Normal Route (southeast side) 300m IV*** 5h to Nelion.
E E Shipton, P Wyn Harris, 1929. This was the first ascent of Nelion and the second of Batian (after Mackinder in 1899). Most of the climbing is I/II, with pitches of III+/IV and one of IV+. The Howell bivouac hut sits on top of Nelion. The higher (by 11m) Batian summit stands 150m away across the 45m deep gap called Gate of the Mists (5144m). This section, there and back, takes 3h with rock of III+ and steep snow (axe useful). All pegs are in place. In descent, attention must be paid to route finding; many old slings litter the rocks. Season: late December to mid March. At other times the route is snowy and possibly icy on the crux.
From Top Hut cross the Lewis Gl. horizontally; crampons not essential. On the far side climb steep bouldery scree to foot of cliffs some 50m left of the icy left-facing Brocherel couloir (IV+/V*).
Easy rocks for 20m to a big terrace. Move left to a gully, snow possible. Ascend this for 20m, then traverse a long way right on easy ledges. Continue traversing right, round a corner (III-) to base of a deep, long chimney (Mackinder's). Go down 2m then 6m right to platform with peg belays. At right end of ledge, step round an edge to a crack in a steep wall. Climb this (IV-) then wider cracks to a big ledge (20m). On the right is the base of One O'Clock Gully. Follow this for 10m then step round an arête to right, climb down the other side of it and follow easy narrow ledges till a steep, easy chimney of 4m leads to broad scree covered ledges crossing the slabby face. Halfway across these climb ledges and slabs to steeper easy rocks, trending slightly right, to reach Baillie's Bivouac, about 60m above the broad scree covered ledges, and 3m below the ridge crest. Above, the ridge steepens to a wall leading to the top of Mackinder's Gendarme. Baillie's Bivouac is normally ice-filled and very cramped. (It is possible to reach this spot by going higher up One O'Clock Gully before traversing right).
Cross over the ridge, go down and left for 10m, then up easy rocks left of gendarme, aiming for a long left-facing corner line; the base of this is reached over a few steeper steps. Above is the crux, De Graaf's Variation. Climb the square-cut corner direct to a ledge (20m, IV). Now 25m of easier climbing to right end of a wide ledge below a sheer, vertical wall. Traverse right and down, crossing the steep upper rocks of an amphitheatre (IV+) to gain the other side, then ascend to easier ground in a gully. Follow this over a steepening (IV) to the easy upper section. Near top of gully steep, easy rocks on right lead to Howell`s Biwak and the Nelion summit (5 - 6 h je nach Akklimatisation).
Nelion - Gate of Mist - Batian und zurück 3-4 h.
Abstieg: Vom Gipfel des Nelion bis zum Wandfuß gibt es eine fest eingerichtete Abseilpiste mit Ring und Klebehaken, teilweise zusätzlich über eine Kette mit Bohrhaken abgesichert. Ich habe bei meiner Besteigung die Abseilpiste mit orangen Punkten zum leichteren Auffinden der Ringe markiert(2- 3 h).
Für selbstständige 2-3er Seilschaften: EXTREK-AFRICA organisiert die Anreise zum Berg, das Akklimatisationstrekking, den Ausrüstungstransport, die Genehmigungen und Camp-Reservierungen, sowie auf Wunsch einen Koch für die Dauer des Aufenthaltes (inklusiv detailliertes aktuelles Topo + Routenbeschreibung)
E E Shipton, P Wyn Harris, 1929. This was the first ascent of Nelion and the second of Batian (after Mackinder in 1899). Most of the climbing is I/II, with pitches of III+/IV and one of IV+. The Howell bivouac hut sits on top of Nelion. The higher (by 11m) Batian summit stands 150m away across the 45m deep gap called Gate of the Mists (5144m). This section, there and back, takes 3h with rock of III+ and steep snow (axe useful). All pegs are in place. In descent, attention must be paid to route finding; many old slings litter the rocks. Season: late December to mid March. At other times the route is snowy and possibly icy on the crux.
From Top Hut cross the Lewis Gl. horizontally; crampons not essential. On the far side climb steep bouldery scree to foot of cliffs some 50m left of the icy left-facing Brocherel couloir (IV+/V*).
Easy rocks for 20m to a big terrace. Move left to a gully, snow possible. Ascend this for 20m, then traverse a long way right on easy ledges. Continue traversing right, round a corner (III-) to base of a deep, long chimney (Mackinder's). Go down 2m then 6m right to platform with peg belays. At right end of ledge, step round an edge to a crack in a steep wall. Climb this (IV-) then wider cracks to a big ledge (20m). On the right is the base of One O'Clock Gully. Follow this for 10m then step round an arête to right, climb down the other side of it and follow easy narrow ledges till a steep, easy chimney of 4m leads to broad scree covered ledges crossing the slabby face. Halfway across these climb ledges and slabs to steeper easy rocks, trending slightly right, to reach Baillie's Bivouac, about 60m above the broad scree covered ledges, and 3m below the ridge crest. Above, the ridge steepens to a wall leading to the top of Mackinder's Gendarme. Baillie's Bivouac is normally ice-filled and very cramped. (It is possible to reach this spot by going higher up One O'Clock Gully before traversing right).
Cross over the ridge, go down and left for 10m, then up easy rocks left of gendarme, aiming for a long left-facing corner line; the base of this is reached over a few steeper steps. Above is the crux, De Graaf's Variation. Climb the square-cut corner direct to a ledge (20m, IV). Now 25m of easier climbing to right end of a wide ledge below a sheer, vertical wall. Traverse right and down, crossing the steep upper rocks of an amphitheatre (IV+) to gain the other side, then ascend to easier ground in a gully. Follow this over a steepening (IV) to the easy upper section. Near top of gully steep, easy rocks on right lead to Howell`s Biwak and the Nelion summit (5 - 6 h je nach Akklimatisation).
Nelion - Gate of Mist - Batian und zurück 3-4 h.
Abstieg: Vom Gipfel des Nelion bis zum Wandfuß gibt es eine fest eingerichtete Abseilpiste mit Ring und Klebehaken, teilweise zusätzlich über eine Kette mit Bohrhaken abgesichert. Ich habe bei meiner Besteigung die Abseilpiste mit orangen Punkten zum leichteren Auffinden der Ringe markiert(2- 3 h).
Für selbstständige 2-3er Seilschaften: EXTREK-AFRICA organisiert die Anreise zum Berg, das Akklimatisationstrekking, den Ausrüstungstransport, die Genehmigungen und Camp-Reservierungen, sowie auf Wunsch einen Koch für die Dauer des Aufenthaltes (inklusiv detailliertes aktuelles Topo + Routenbeschreibung)
Steigeisenfeste Kletter-/Bergschuhe - beim Übergang zum Batian: Doppelseil, Leichtsteigeisen, Pickel
Von der Austrian Hut (4800m) in Richtung Pt Lenana aufsteigen. An einem orangen Punkt (Verfasser) hinüber zum Lewis Gletscher queren. Lewis Gletscher entlang der Markierungsstangen überqueren. Gletscher an einem Steinmann mit orangen Punkt verlassen. Ohne Höhenverlust im Schotter unter dem Nelion queren bis zum deutlichen Bocherel Couloir. Vom Auslauf des Couloirs bis zum höchsten Punkt der Schotterhalde ansteigen. Einstieg ist mit einem orangen Punkt markiert (4880m). Die ersten beiden Seillängen können seilfrei begangen werden. Anseilen am Ende des Schotterbandes.
Verhältnisse zu dieser Route
Metadaten
Mt Kenya - Nelion (5188m)
Nelion (5188m) - normal route (South-East side) IV+
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