Verhältnisse vom 29.08.2006
Jungfrau - ´direct´ normal route
An almost perfect day after an unstable weather period. The sky was almost clear with just some scattered clouds in the distance. There was just some fair wind over e.g. the Rottalsattel, like 3 Beaufort.
At our arrival we had noticed that there was a ?direct? track laid out towards the Rottalsattel from the Jungfraujoch, and that this seemed to get up uninterrupted by seracs. We chose this route as the more interesting one. From our tent on the Jungfraufirn we joined this track crossing the glacier at the upper end. As the picture shows, the track goes all the way up to where it joins the track from the east spur.
The slope to the Rottalsattel (picture) was a bit of a bottleneck. It was steep up to something like 70 degrees at the top, some steps, some ice softened by the sun. Belaying might be necessary, screws were not placeable on the saddle.
The ridge constituting the Rottalsattel (picture) was corniced with some wind blowing, but fairly passable.
We chose the standard traverse (picture) towards the western edge of the snowfield and followed this to the summit. No real problems were encountered. There was a good track laid out in which it was just a matter of secure stepping. Some poles were present which can be used for belaying.
For the descent we followed the east spur for variation. This is an enjoyable route up to the rocky part. But from there it is not obvious the find the route down, coming from above. It is also a bit of scramble on loose rock and scree and soft snow. There is a relay above a steeper slope which could be used for an abseil, but it was overlooked by us. From the rain meter we choose our way to the right where the left one would have been shorter. In both cases it ended up above a crevasse. From the meter an abseil can be made, to the left probably all the way down.
At our arrival we had noticed that there was a ?direct? track laid out towards the Rottalsattel from the Jungfraujoch, and that this seemed to get up uninterrupted by seracs. We chose this route as the more interesting one. From our tent on the Jungfraufirn we joined this track crossing the glacier at the upper end. As the picture shows, the track goes all the way up to where it joins the track from the east spur.
The slope to the Rottalsattel (picture) was a bit of a bottleneck. It was steep up to something like 70 degrees at the top, some steps, some ice softened by the sun. Belaying might be necessary, screws were not placeable on the saddle.
The ridge constituting the Rottalsattel (picture) was corniced with some wind blowing, but fairly passable.
We chose the standard traverse (picture) towards the western edge of the snowfield and followed this to the summit. No real problems were encountered. There was a good track laid out in which it was just a matter of secure stepping. Some poles were present which can be used for belaying.
For the descent we followed the east spur for variation. This is an enjoyable route up to the rocky part. But from there it is not obvious the find the route down, coming from above. It is also a bit of scramble on loose rock and scree and soft snow. There is a relay above a steeper slope which could be used for an abseil, but it was overlooked by us. From the rain meter we choose our way to the right where the left one would have been shorter. In both cases it ended up above a crevasse. From the meter an abseil can be made, to the left probably all the way down.
The 24th some 10 centimeters of new snow fell. The even better day of the 25th we noticed both routes were retracked again, the ?direct? one now also crossing a lower part of the glacier. The night of the 26th, as we were back in Grindelwald, a lot of rain fell in the valley, probably being a lot of snow higher up.
Routeninformationen
Jungfrau - ´direct´ normal route
Letzte Änderung: 29.08.2006, 15:55Aufrufe: 375 mal angezeigt
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