Verhältnisse vom 19.09.2004
Eiger Mittellegi (3970m)
Conditions are NOT optimal. It has snowed on wedsnesday and there was a lot of powder snow ( and some icy rock)
Without pulling the ropes the tour would be more than D+ (TD at some places) And there are still some delicate moves without rope or bolts.
Very difficult to free climb the loose rock with powder snow on it.
We did 5 hours to the top. Descent took us 5.5 hours. Do not underestimate the descent. It is very long although the rock from Northern eigerjoch to southern eigerjoch(Granit) is much better to climb than the mittelegi ridge. For the moment this south ridge has a lot of mixed climbing due to the snow
Weather was very nice, on saturday we lay down in the sun on the terrace of the hut. Sunday (climb) was very nice but clouds appeared and at 18.00 the sky was all grey with all mounatins the clouds. Fortunately, we were at the Jungfraujoch at 17.30
Without pulling the ropes the tour would be more than D+ (TD at some places) And there are still some delicate moves without rope or bolts.
Very difficult to free climb the loose rock with powder snow on it.
We did 5 hours to the top. Descent took us 5.5 hours. Do not underestimate the descent. It is very long although the rock from Northern eigerjoch to southern eigerjoch(Granit) is much better to climb than the mittelegi ridge. For the moment this south ridge has a lot of mixed climbing due to the snow
Weather was very nice, on saturday we lay down in the sun on the terrace of the hut. Sunday (climb) was very nice but clouds appeared and at 18.00 the sky was all grey with all mounatins the clouds. Fortunately, we were at the Jungfraujoch at 17.30
The season will be over I think, some more snowfall and it will be very difficult.
Approach to the hut from eismeer will be unpossible when there is fresh snow on the slab leading to the hut
Mittellegihut was closed. Winter bivouac is open. Very nice bivouac with everything you nee: stove, kettles, plates to eat, glasses, soda drinks, towels
etcetera
etcetera
Routeninformationen
Eiger Mittellegi (3970m)
Mittellegi (descent via south ridge)
Letzte Änderung: 20.09.2004, 10:32Aufrufe: 277 mal angezeigt
Metadaten
