Il Chapütschin (3386m)21.04.2024
Verhältnisse vom 31.05.2014
Piz Cambrena (3606m): Gabarrou
Coulour - very good neve,
First pitches: not so much ice. We went to the highest point of the snow on the left side and climbed a thin gully afterwards (70-80 degrees) with good protection in the rocks. Then a tricky traverse (M4) to the right. Rock is not always solid but you can place good protection.
Then you arrive on a snow ledge with a fixed belay. Then follow the diagonal snow gully to the left. From then on 200m of neve climbing to the ridge, occasional steps up to AI3. Protection is a bit difficult.
First pitches: not so much ice. We went to the highest point of the snow on the left side and climbed a thin gully afterwards (70-80 degrees) with good protection in the rocks. Then a tricky traverse (M4) to the right. Rock is not always solid but you can place good protection.
Then you arrive on a snow ledge with a fixed belay. Then follow the diagonal snow gully to the left. From then on 200m of neve climbing to the ridge, occasional steps up to AI3. Protection is a bit difficult.
Don't wait to long since there is not so much ice. Do not under estimate the descent via Piz d'Arlas, it took us pretty long. Consider down climbing via the Eisnase - i don't know about that route but it seems quicker.
Bring a full rack of cams (green c3 up to yellow c4), wires and 8 ice screws. check http://www.alpineadventures.nl/node/701 for more pictures
Letzte Änderung: 02.06.2014, 13:31Aufrufe: 5555 mal angezeigt
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Piz Cambrena (3606m)
Gabarrou
Karte